Q: In early fall, we had a 150-foot silver maple removed from the backyard which had been the home of many squirrel families. Apparently some have taken residence in a very tall juniper and have taken to chewing off the tips of the branches that contain small purple berries.
They are making a real mess on the driveway that has to be cleaned up every other day or the sticky debris gets tracked around on the car tires and our shoes. The tree is too big and tall to spray with an animal deterrent.
Do you know of any type of sound machine that might be annoying enough to keep them away or have any other thoughts?
—Bill Miers
A: By eliminating the maple, you displaced the squirrels and they, very practically, sought refuge nearby, in your juniper. The tips of trees are a preferred food in the late winter and early spring. Berries are, as you know, prime food for many common backyard visitors.
I don’t hold out much hope for totally eliminating your squirrel problem. However, I did find a few recommendations that may help. For a better understanding of your adversary, I suggest reading the Penn State publication: “Wildlife Damage Control 10: Tree Squirrels” (http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uh096.pdf).
Sound emitters and ultrasonic deterrents are popularly marketed solutions but there is considerable debate on how effective they really are. If you were planning to use in an enclosed space, say an attic, maybe I’d suggest giving it a try. However, in the open backyard, I doubt they would be effective.
Is the tree standing alone —no nearby trees or buildings to launch off and jump into the branches of the juniper? Is there at least six feet between the lowest branch and the ground? Some suggest a giant squirrel baffle, a tree collar: metal, two feet wide and six feet off the ground but attached with springs or wires to avoid girdling the tree.
You’ve eliminated taste repellents because of the size of the tree.
They work on smaller plants by making tasty greens, stems and bulbs into nasty tasting stuff. I did find a reference to applying sticky stuff to the trunk (polybutenes) but that was described as very messy and if the squirrels live in the tree, this is not a solution for you.
Trapping is not really a solution. If you trap them, you would have to kill them, as relocation is not legal. And in reality, you will never trap all the squirrels in the neighborhood so one batch will be replaced by another.
I fear that the best solution is to get rid of the tree or put up with the mess. I invite readers to offer alternative solutions.
Forcing Cannas
Q: I would like to divide my canna bulbs to fit into 6-inch pots for a fundraiser in late April/early May. The clumps of bulbs are resting in my cool, dry basement loosely surrounded by shredded newspaper. I would like to have about 4-6 inches of growth visible at the time of the fundraiser so that the customers know that they are purchasing a healthy plant. My questions are: How much of the bulb is needed to produce a flower? (Some clumps are quite large).
Should I use a larger container? (I just so happen to have a fair amount of the 6-inch size). When should I put the bulbs into the planting soil to have a 4-6 inch plant by late April? Is regular potting soil OK or should I use a mixture? (Normally, I just put them into my garden).
Will the newly potted plant need water and light immediately or only after a shoot appears? (When I transfer my bulbs — I put them straight into the garden in late April/early May without any previous watering or exposure to light).
—Vicky Richter, Coopersburg
A: My research indicates that you have two options: sprout and then pot or just pot directly. As to the rest of your questions:
•When dividing canna rhizomes (underground stems), each section should have a minimum of two to three eyes (growing points). The cut ends of the rhizome are often dusted with a rooting hormone — the fungicide in the powder will reduce rotting problems.
•The size of the container is determined by the size of the rhizome you pot up. An ideal pot for your project would be a shallow azalea pot — usually about 8 to 10 inches across and about 6 to 7 inches deep.
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